Florida room, greenhouse, solarium, atrium, conservatory, patio room, and three season and four season sunrooms: these are some of the common terms widely used in the sunroom industry. When potential clients first establish contact with Sierra Sunrooms, usually either in our showroom or with a home visit, and express an interest in adding a sunroom, our first question is often, what do they see as a sunroom? Often the term “sunroom” is used to describe a room that consists of a conventionally framed addition with one or two patio doors and an ample distribution of operating and fixed windows. To others, the term “sunroom” is reserved for glass roof additions. To help avoid confusion, Sierra Sunrooms uses the following terminology to help clarify sometimes significant and sometimes subtle distinctions between the different types of sunrooms, and their purposes.
1. Greenhouse: A room that usually, but not always, includes a glass roof and side walls built mostly from glass and designed primarily for the growing of plants. They are usually built with low performance single glaze glass or a plastic/acrylic material with minimal insulation performance and little protection against the heat of the sun. They can be built as a lean-to off an existing house or as a stand alone unit.
2. Three Season Sunroom: Much the same as a greenhouse, these rooms are usually built without the benefit of added insulation, no or minimal installed heating, low performance glass, and with either a glass, a styrofoam/aluminum skin core, or an un-insulated framed and shingled roof. Their main function is to provide bug-free and rain-protected additional living space during the summer and shoulder months without having to commit to the full expense of an all year sunroom.
3. Patio Rooms: Patio room installations have experienced significant growth in the US and Canadian markets over the past 15 years. These rooms, manufactured and sold in kit form by several companies, are usually built with 3 to 7 inch insulating styrofoam panels sandwiched between two sheets of aluminum. Vertical walls generally include operating aluminum sliding windows and patio doors. While these rooms are generally designed to function as three season rooms, they can with some modification, be built as all-year living space. Upgrades to achieve reasonable winter performance would include high performance glass rather than single glaze, thicker foam insulation (e.g. 7 inches in the roof panel), thermal breaks separating the inside metal from outside metal, and an insulated platform. Three season patio rooms are very popular in the southern US where winter is either short or less harsh than we are accustomed to in eastern Ontario and western Quebec, and where summer shade provided by the opaque roof is at a premium.
4. Conventional Shingle Roof Sunroom: Basically this is your standard home addition with fixed or operating windows or doors usually on all three sides with a conventional shingled roof. One or more skylights are often added to provide additional lighting. These rooms are almost always built for all year use and are often designed to become part and parcel of the existing house.
5. Glass Roof Sunroom: Thanks to the many technological improvements over the past
decade, glass roof sunrooms are rapidly increasing in popularity. But as with sunrooms in general, there are many variations. Sierra Sunrooms uses the term “glass roof sunroom” to describe rooms that are designed to be bright and cheery, with proper heating and cooling, and to be comfortable 12 months of the year. Built with high performance glass, these rooms are often integrated right into the home by removing the wall between the existing house and the new sunroom. The structural frames for these rooms can be built using aluminum, aluminum with PVC cladding, or wood.
6. Conservatories: a term previously used to describe traditional glass and iron frame rooms that were popular for growing plants and flowers in Europe during the 18th, 19th, and 20th centuries. They are especially popular in England where they continue to expand in popularity, often as unheated space. Conservatories are usually constructed in a Victorian or Georgian design with considerable attention paid to cresting, the finial, and other decorative features. Modified with North American building methods and materials in order to stand up to our more rugged climate, English style conservatories are now experiencing increasing popularity in North American markets.
7. Solariums: This term is generally, but not exclusively, restricted to glass roof additions and is used to describe both glass roof greenhouses as well as all-season glass roof sunrooms.
8. Atrium: Widely used, this term refers primarily to two storey (or higher) glass roof courts and entrances to larger buildings.
9. Passive Solar Heater: A glass or shingled roof sunroom that is designed to permit entry and then capture of the sun’s infrared solar heat, rather than to deter its entry.
Shingle or Glass Roof?
Deciding whether or not to build a sunroom is the easy part. Once that decision has been made, questions such as how large, what style, the type of flooring, the style and size of windows, how to deal with heating and air conditioning, the lighting and the location of electric outlets, and budgetary limitations are but a few of the sometimes difficult considerations linked to the design process. One such issue is whether to build a conventional shingle or glass roof sunroom. This can be a tricky and complex issue.
“Conventional shingle roof sunroom” is the term we use to describe regular additions usually built with rafters or trusses, a shingle roof, R30 or higher insulation in the roof, and a generous placement of windows and patio or other glass doors on all three sides. Conventional shingle roof sunrooms have several advantages. First, they are more energy efficient in winter than glass roof additions. Rooms built with substantial roof insulation (e.g., R30 and above) will outperform a glass roof addition in winter from an energy conservation perspective. Second, in summer, glass roof additions will let in more of the sun’s infrared heat than an opaque shingled roof. Infrared heat passes through glass, even when that glass is gas-filled with an enhanced insulation factor. And third, and as a general rule, conventionally framed rooms, and foam core patio rooms, are less expensive than high performance glass roof sunrooms.
But just as every equation has two sides, so it is in the debate between conventional and glass roof sunrooms. Although conventional additions may be more energy efficient in both winter and summer, and less expensive to build, the fact is that glass roof sunrooms have powerful points in their favour that will usually lead prospective buyers to choose this option. Too often, sunroom buyers remain sceptical of the winter and summer performance of glass roof sunrooms, fearing they will be too cold in winter and too hot in summer. And while it is true that sunroom glass is less energy efficient than an insulated shingle roof in summer and winter, the fact remains that ConservaGlass Select, exclusive to Four Seasons Sunrooms, does perform well beyond expectations in all types of weather.
With winter heating costs for example, ConservaGlass Select has proven to be remarkably efficient. One house in Ottawa with a glass roof sunroom measuring approximately 22 ft. x 11 ft., and with a 5 ft. roof extension which together added 37% to the main floor square footage of the home, experienced only a 5 ½ % increase in gas consumption averaged over an twelve year period (1998 to 2010). And that sunroom faces due north. What makes this statistic all the more surprising is that at the time the sunroom was added, the hot water system was switched from electric to gas, thereby reducing the increased natural gas costs for incremental heating to less than 5%.
Equally important from an energy perspective, Four Seasons Sunrooms glass roof additions also perform well in summer. Standard double glaze thermals (i.e., two pieces of glass in a sealed unit) will let in approximately 90% of the sun’s infrared heat. Low-E argon, irrespective of its enhanced R value, still allows approximately 80% of this heat to enter the sunroom. By comparison, Four Season Sunrooms patented ConservaGlass Select roof glass will block approximately 85% of the suns infrared heat, allowing only 15% to penetrate the sunroom. While this number is not 0%, the reality is that a Four Seasons ConservaGlass Select roof is not far off an opaque shingled or foam core panelled roof in terms of infrared heat reflection and insulation value.
High performance glass is not the only reason many sunroom buyers choose a glass over a conventional roof sunroom. We all love light. Few would argue with that statement. Visit any city during the lunch break on a nice day and the first thing you will notice is a steady stream of office workers moving to the outdoors to enjoy the sunlight. On pleasant days we all enjoy the outdoors—and glass roof sunrooms can deliver that outdoor feeling right into your home the entire year.
One cautionary note. Buyers contemplating a conventional shingle roof sunroom should carefully analyse the impact of that new shingle roof, even with skylights, on the existing room or rooms to which it is to be attached. Whether it be a living, dining, family room, or kitchen, these rooms almost always have one or more windows or a set of glass doors facing the backyard and providing natural light to that room. Building a conventional roof over those windows and doors will dramatically cut that natural light and darken the adjoining room or rooms. For dining rooms, since they are used primarily in the evening, this loss of light may not be too significant. But for other rooms, particularly kitchens, this loss of light could be a major disappointment, and more important, could drastically affect the resale attractiveness and price when it comes time to sell. It is a well-known fact—people like light. Bright cheerful houses will always sell first, and at a premium. One way to gain some idea of the impact of that loss of light on your home is to temporarily place a tarp as close to the proposed roof location as possible, and to observe its impact on the amount of natural light now entering the adjoining room. And bear in mind, once the room is built with conventionally framed walls, that light will be reduced even further.
As a final point, few would argue that glass roof sunrooms represent a unique enhancement to any home. They are both spectacular and magnificent with the ability to change the character, traffic patterns, and perception of every home. They combine unparalleled styling and elegance with architectural flexibility. Their impact is simply dramatic. They offer an extraordinary alternative to an ordinary addition.
3 Season Rooms
Three Season Patio Rooms
Three season patio rooms have become fairly popular in Ontario and Quebec over the past decade, and the demand for this product continues to be on the upswing. Underlying their popularity is the basic reality that three season patio rooms, also known as “Shade” and “Florida” rooms, cost less than rooms designed and built to withstand the harsh Ontario and Quebec winters. These rooms are immensely popular in the US, especially in Florida and throughout the south where they are basically usable twelve months of the year. Typically they feature metal skin/foam core roofs and walls with as many single glaze screened sliding windows and patio doors as can be fit into the available wall space and within code.
Three season patio rooms work extremely well given their intended purpose. They are bug-free, provide protection from wind and rain, and serve as terrific shade rooms in the summer. They are great for summer entertaining and simply enjoying the outdoors. They are a popular addition for cottages. And while three season patio rooms do not work in the middle of winter, space heaters can be used to extend their use into the late fall and early spring shoulder seasons.
There are, however, two important points that buyers of patio rooms should not overlook. First, although solid roofs do provide great shade cover in summer, they will likely serve to significantly darken that part of the house to which these rooms are attached. This can be upsetting, especially if the adjoining room is the kitchen or family room where adequate natural lighting can be critical.
A second consideration relates to cost. Although three season patio rooms cost less than rooms built for all year comfort, the cost differential between the two may not always favour the three season room. Both rooms share similar basic expenses such as plans, engineering approvals, permits and foundation costs. Where cost upgrades can occur is with floor and wall insulation, window upgrades, and ensuring that the inside and outside of the room’s metal skins are thermally broken. Depending on the size of the addition, the cost differential between the two rooms may warrant going for the all-season version. One problem is that not all three season patio room companies manufacture and sell all-season rooms and simply focus on their 3 season product. Where this is the case, the sales person may be reluctant to introduce any discussion of the all-season option.
Three Season Glass Roof Sunrooms
If three season patio rooms and glass roof additions have one element in common, it is that neither will function as liveable space in cold months. There is also one major difference. Where three season patio rooms are usable in summer because of the shade cover provided by the aluminum skin/foam core roof, three season glass roof sunrooms can be unbearably hot—even oven-like—on any typical summer day. Here there is an element of “caveat emptor”, or buyer beware. While there is a market and purpose for these rooms, buyers should be aware that three season glass roof additions are truly only usable in the shoulder seasons, on summer evenings, or on summer days when the weather is cool and cloudy. Some of these rooms offer roof blinds as an upgrade and while these do help in providing some relief, they absolutely do not solve the problem of excess heat, even when they employ some form of tinted glass.
If you are looking for a three season sunroom that is relatively inexpensive, bug-free, will protect you from the elements, will not darken your house, and is to be used primarily for summer evenings after sunset, and possibly early fall and late spring, but not in summer or winter, then a three season glass roof sunroom may very well suit your needs.
One final point. Whereas the price differential between a three and four season patio room may be relatively small, the price difference between three and four season glass roof sunrooms, due to the much higher cost of heat-reflective and well-insulated glass, is usually quite substantial.
Why a Sunroom?
Glass roof sunrooms offer homeowners many benefits including their dramatic impact on your home, unparalleled styling and elegance, and architectural flexibility. They create a brighter, more cheerful living and working environment than can be achieved by conventional construction. Sunrooms almost always become the most popular and most used area in the house. Capturing light is simply one of the most common reasons for making your addition a glass roof sunroom.
But there are many reasons for adding a sunroom. Every year, on average, between October 1 and May 31, eastern Ontario and western Quebec receive over 1100 hours of sunshine. Ask yourself: How many of these do you actually enjoy? With a glass roof sunroom you have the opportunity to enjoy the entire 1100—right in the comfort of your own home.
Sunrooms add space. Solarium/sunroom additions can be used for every conceivable purpose including kitchens, family rooms, dining rooms, exercise rooms, foyers, and home offices, all year tropical living space, and enclosed swimming pools. Enlarging an existing room by removing an existing wall, or a portion of that wall, and adding as little as 3 to 5 feet with a glass roof extension can significantly change the character, usage patterns, and your enjoyment of your entire home. Bump-out sunroom additions can add critical square footage and turn existing average- or poorly-lit rooms into larger, sunny and pleasant environments.
Kitchen renovations that incorporate solariums are becoming increasingly popular. One new owner of a Four Seasons solarium/kitchen reported that the real joy of a sunroom addition was the sensation of being surrounded by nature. "When I'm in the kitchen I feel like I'm in the middle of my garden . . . and it's beautiful and sunny whatever the season." Another has commented, "it's the kitchen I always wanted - - and never want to leave!"
With age, the eye’s pupil shrinks and its lens becomes less transparent, and thereby reducing the amount of light reaching the retina. In fact, the retina of a 65-year-old person receives only about one third as much light as its 20-year-old counterpart. In other words, for a 65-year-old to see as well as a 20-year-old when reading, he or she needs three times as much light. Glass roof sunrooms can provide that extra light. And as we age this need for extra light only increases.
We are constantly reminded of the need to exercise. Many of us join gymnasiums while others choose to set up their own exercise rooms, usually in a basement recreation room. As home renovation specialists, our sales professionals have the opportunity to visit many homes, and to observe the usage patterns with these home gyms. From our experience and discussions with these homeowners, it is obvious that most people with basement exercise rooms are spending far less time on their equipment than originally planned. On the other hand, equipment placed in areas where there is an abundance of natural light, such as a sunroom, is almost guaranteed to see significant and continuous usage. It’s a simple fact - - we all love natural light. [JG5]It’s invigorating!
Independent studies show that well-designed glass roof sunrooms represent one of the highest returns for all home improvement options. Glass roof sunrooms do make a design statement. Well-designed sunrooms built with high performance glass will not only enhance your enjoyment of your home, and its value, they increase its resale potential. Today’s home buyers look for a bright sunny environment!
Glass Considerations
Each year, even with global warming, the residents of eastern Ontario and western Quebec survive a long tough winter. Canada is a cold country and in winter, we are forced to live indoors for a longer period than we would prefer. To help overcome these long winters, homeowners in Ottawa and Gatineau are increasingly turning to glass roof sunrooms. They want to bring the outdoors indoors; they want to brighten their home environments. Each year, on average, eastern Ontario and western Quebec receive over 1100 hours of sunshine between October 1 and May 31. With a glass roof addition from Four Seasons Sunrooms we have the opportunity to enjoy the entire 1100—right in the comfort of our own home.
Obviously, glass is the critical building component in sunrooms. The problem for homeowners is that few of us rarely pay much attention to this product and its properties. Given our experience with cold winters, we tend to focus almost exclusively on insulation or “R” value when selecting the type of glass for use in our sunrooms. We all understand that the higher the R value of glass, the greater its performance in terms of heat containment in winter. But when considering the purchase of a glass roof sunroom, this overriding concern with insulation value can be costly and even counter-productive.
For over 30 years, Four Seasons Sunrooms has been a world leader in sunroom glass technology. That is understandable. It is the world’s largest manufacturer of glass roof sunrooms.
“Can I live in this room in winter?” That is one of the most frequently asked questions we hear from clients living in Ottawa-Gatineau and considering the purchase of a Four Season sunroom. Our categorical answer is yes, absolutely. But in our opinion, these clients have often asked the wrong question. The more important or at least an equally important question should be “can I live in this room in summer?” Selecting the right glass so as to ensure optimum year round comfort for your sunroom, even in summer, requires some knowledge of the performance features of the major types of glass, especially in terms of solar heat reflection. This is often the key to understanding how to build a sunroom that will be comfortable throughout the entire year. In our view, control over the sun's heat in summer is in fact the single most important factor in sunroom design - - even in the Ottawa-Gatineau region!
Primary and Secondary Heat
In order to understand what makes one type of glass perform better in summer than another, it is necessary to differentiate between what is sometimes referred to as "primary" and "secondary" heat. Stated simply, primary heat comes from the sun and heats the earth. Heat returned from earth to the atmosphere is called secondary heat. More specifically, primary heat refers to short wave solar radiation from the sun. For the most part it is represented by the infrared and near infrared portion of the short wave spectrum. Other components of that spectrum include X-rays, UV, and visible light. Short wave solar radiation, or primary heat, has the ability to pass through the earth's atmosphere without being absorbed or reflected back into space to any significant degree. Similarly, this short wave solar radiation will also pass through clear glass with very little being absorbed or reflected back into the atmosphere. In other words, both the earth’s atmosphere and standard glass are transparent and allow most short wave solar radiation to pass right through. However, once short wave solar radiation strikes an object, such as trees, buildings, pavement, or the floor or furniture in a sunroom, it causes that object to heat up and to become a source of heat in the form of long wave thermal radiation.
Long wave thermal radiation, unlike short wave, does not pass as readily through glass. In fact, to a large degree, glass is opaque to long wave infrared. The result is that a large percentage of this long wave radiation coming from within the sunroom is in fact reflected by the glass back into the sunroom where it is absorbed by the inside air, often causing the room in summer to become unbearably hot and oven-like. This heat associated with long wave thermal radiation can be referred to as secondary heat and it is this secondary heat which is absorbed by and warms the earth's atmosphere.
This is also exactly what happens to a car when it is left sitting in the sun, especially in spring, summer, and fall. Short wave solar radiation passes easily through the car's glass, striking the interior materials, and causing them to heat up and emit long wave thermal radiation. A significant portion of this long wave radiation becomes trapped inside by the car and is then absorbed by and warms the car's interior air. Due to the extremely poor insulation and low R value of the car’s metal surface and single glaze glass, this secondary heat is continuously dispersed to the outside atmosphere through conduction.
The above description has important implications for sunroom design. In order for your sunroom to be comfortable throughout the entire year, its glass must be able to carry out two separate functions. First, for all-year comfort, it must insulate against outside cold winter temperatures by reducing interior heat loss in winter. It must also help to insulate the home in summer from excessive outside secondary heat (i.e., ambient air in the 30 degree Celsius and above range). In other words, for your comfort, sunroom glass must have a good insulation or R value. Second, for summer comfort, it must have the ability to block a large percentage of the solar infrared short wave radiation (primary heat) from entering the sunroom and causing it to overheat. Although less important, it will also have to reflect the earth’s long wave infrared radiation from outside objects such as buildings, trees, rocks, etc. As a general rule, without solar protection, as much as 90% of excessive heat build-up in glass roof sunrooms is caused by short wave solar heat gain rather than the transfer of heat from the outside atmosphere to the inside of the sunroom.
The Capability of Glass to Insulate Against Cold and Secondary Heat
Different materials resist the transfer of cold or secondary heat with different levels of efficiency. In house construction, R value refers to the ability of a material or substance to insulate, or reduce the transfer of heat through itself. (Energy always flows from a high temperature area to a lower temperature area). To help prevent interior heat escaping through sunroom glass in winter, or warm/hot outside atmospheric heat (e.g., 30 degree Celsius and above) from entering your sunroom in summer, it is essential to install glass with an enhanced R value.
Obviously, different types of glass have different insulation values. Single glaze glass is exactly as described. It is one piece of glass usually with an R value of one. Thermal is two pieces of glass separated by a small air space and sealed at the edges. Depending on a number of factors such as the size of the air space and thickness of the glass, thermal glass generally has an R value of approximately 2. Triple glaze is three pieces of glass in a sealed unit with an R value of approximately 2.7. Low-E is a thermal unit to which a low emissivity coating has been added to the inside surface of the outside piece of glass, bumping the R value from 2 to 3.1. Low-E argon is a piece of low-E that has had the air removed from the cavity separating the two pieces of glass, and that air replaced with argon gas. Adding argon pushes the R value to approximately 3.7. Low-E2 with argon has a coating on both inside surfaces and an R value slightly above 4. Adding argon gas and two low-E coatings to triple glaze will push the R value as high as 6.5. R values for all types of glass can be boosted to as much as 10, or even higher, by replacing the argon with a heavier gas such as krypton, but at a considerable increase in cost.
At some point, the pursuit of higher glass R values, given the cost of boosting this insulation value, becomes no longer cost effective. Here it is critical to understand that the curve measuring glass insulation performance for each level of R value is exponential - - not linear. In more simple terms, R4 is not twice as efficient R2, nor is R16 twice as efficient as R8. In fact the improvement to be gained by adding R value diminishes with each incremental addition. For example, where an R4 glass wall will actually cover off about 80% of potential heat loss, a conventionally framed 2 x 6 inch wall, with no windows or doors, and rated at R20, will only cover off approximately 95% of potential heat loss, or only 15% more of potential heat loss than an R4 all glass wall. And given that most conventionally framed house walls have glass windows and doors, this differential will drop to well below the 15% advantage.
At Four Seasons Sunrooms, we recommend the use of ConservaGlass Select® with an R4 rating. Not only will this enhanced R value keep you warm in winter, it will also function to keep those unpleasant hot summer temperatures under control.
The Capability of Glass to Control the Entry of Primary Heat
Dealing with primary heat is much more complex than dealing with secondary heat. To start with, it is important to understand that the R value of glass has essentially no role in protecting against short wave radiation or primary heat. This can be a difficult concept to grasp. Protection against short wave solar radiation is provided by what is called the "shading coefficient". It is completely separate from R value. It refers to the ability of glass to selectively filter and prevent a portion of the sun's solar heat, particularly infrared radiation, from passing through glass and entering your sunroom. It is measured in relative terms with a fully opaque surface such as a solid wall having a shading coefficient of 0. At the other extreme, a single pane of glass untreated will have a shading coefficient of 0.99. A second method of measurement of primary heat penetration is in quantitative terms, stated in Btu's per hour per square foot (Btu/hr/sqft).
Without a strong shading coefficient, sunrooms run the risk of being unbearably hot and unusable in summer, regardless of the R value. This is a critical point. Even if it were available, and you were able to use glass with an R value of 50 or 100, but without a strong shading coefficient to reduce solar heat gain, your sunroom, although extremely energy efficient in winter, would still be oven-like in spring, summer, and early fall.
In summer, primary heat enters a sunroom mainly through the roof. In winter, due to the lower angle of the sun, it enters primarily through the front and side vertical glass. To be comfortable in summer, a south facing sunroom should have roof glass with a shading coefficient of 0.20 or below, and 0.40 or below for vertical glass. By accommodating the changing angle of the sun in winter and summer, this glass combination, by allowing for some passive solar heat gain in winter while providing significant solar protection in summer, will work to the home owner’s advantage. However, even with this level of solar protection, with shading coefficients of approximately 0.20 and 0.40, and in the absence of significant shading from trees or other buildings, adequate ventilation or air conditioning for hot summer days is still recommended. As a general rule, and certainly for south or southwest facing sunrooms, no shading coefficient can be too low.
As is the case with R values, the capability of each of the more common types of glass to control heat gain will vary. Thermal glass has a shading coefficient of .87 which translates into a massive summer heat gain of 183 Btu/hr/sqft. Similarly, low-E and low-E argon, both with a relatively ineffective shading coefficient in the area of .80, will allow a relative heat gain of 170 Btu/sqft/hr. While these numbers may be considered a plus on sunny cold winter days, the sunroom will almost certainly be unbearably hot over the summer months, and even as early as April or May, unless it is equipped with heavy duty and fairly expensive to operate air conditioning. It should also be noted that low-E glass was developed for the window market—not the sunroom market. Its purpose is to boost winter R values by reflecting long wave infrared radiation back into the home. It was not designed to cut short wave radiation.
Four Seasons Sunrooms prides itself on having glass with strong shading coefficients. We lead the industry. Our special patented ConservaGlass Select® glazing system, with Stay Clean technology, is simply the best performing glazing available in the industry today. Available in two basic types—MC 16 and MC 7E—it has revolutionized the sunroom glass industry. MC 16 roof glass, with a shading coefficient of 0.18, is so effective it will actually reduce the relative heat gain from 183 BTU’s/sqft/hr for thermal glass down to approximately 38 BTU’s/sqft/hr. MC 7E, used for curved and vertical glazing reduces heat gain down to 79 BTU’s/sqft/hr. In fact, Four Seasons Sunrooms is so far ahead of the competition in this area that our competitors will usually prefer not to raise the issue of shading coefficient with their clients and instead focus their glass presentation almost exclusively on insulation values.
Accepting glass with a poor shading coefficient may be the correct approach if you are building a passive solar heater, or if you spend all summer away from your home and at your cottage. It certainly does not work for sunrooms that you intend to use all year long.
Low Maintenance Care
Four Seasons ConservaGlass Select® goes through an extra manufacturing process to permanently bond an exterior finish to the glass. This makes the surface extremely smooth and reduces the potential for dirt accumulation. It also has the ability to repel water and to resist staining. Put simply, ConservaGlass Select® stays cleaner longer.
Warranty Considerations
Seal failure in glass is not a good thing. It is another topic often avoided by sunroom sales representatives. When seal failure occurs, condensation will collect inside between the two glass panes and impair visibility. Enhanced performance glass is expensive and in order to avoid facing high glass replacement costs, buyers should ensure they receive good warranty protection. Once your warranty protection has ended, you could be looking at $45 or more per sq. ft. for replacement glass. In addition, labour costs to replace one piece of glass could add between $100 to $150 to the overall cost.
It is our anecdotal experience that triple glaze is more likely to experience seal failure than double glaze. It is certainly far more prone to seal failure than ConservaGlass Select®. Increased wear and tear on the window hinges and casement cranks from the heavier weight of triple glaze due to the extra panel of glass is also of concern.
Four Seasons Sunrooms provides one of the strongest and most comprehensive warranties in the industry, including full 100% coverage against both seal failure and breakage for the first 20 years. (This warranty does not include replacement labour beyond the first year). And unlike other warranties, it is not prorated. After the first 20 years it simply drops from 100% to 50% of full coverage. Forever! And that warranty is transferable. That is security for the homeowner that is backed by craftsmanship, a quality product, and a company that has been in business for over 35 years.
There is one other warranty consideration that should not be ignored and that is the issue of long term availability. Glass manufacturers will often change the type of glass they produce and sell as new and improved technology becomes available. Sunroom owners with short warranties may not only be looking at unexpected replacement costs sooner than they would like, but may find that when they try to purchase the replacement glass they require to match their remaining glass, it is either no longer in production, or has become a relatively expensive custom order. Moreover, custom glass can take weeks for delivery from the factory.
Labour costs must also be considered. Not only do sunroom owners with short warranties face the probability of expensive glass replacement costs, they are also likely to encounter significant labour costs in replacing the failed glass. For new owners of Four Seasons sunrooms, even this replacement labour cost is not much of an issue since our failure rate for ConservaGlass Select® is extremely low.
Choosing the Best Glass for Your Sunroom
An efficient R value, an efficient shading coefficient, and a respectable warranty with real protection for the buyer are all critical to the economics and overall enjoyment of your sunroom. At Four Seasons Sunrooms, we believe ConservaGlass Select® provides our clients with excellent protection against solar heat gain, an enhanced R value for winter comfort, as well as the strongest warranty in the business.
Foundations
Ottawa and Gatineau have very cold winters. In extremely cold years, coupled with little snow cover for insulation, the frost can actually drive six or more feet underground. Depending on its moisture content, when ground freezes it expands, causing structures such as fence posts and house foundations to heave or lift up. This movement must be eliminated as it can damage buildings and sunrooms, making it difficult to open doors and windows. Movement due to soil expansion can also cause sunroom glass to shatter. To avoid this problem, Ottawa, Gatineau, and other local building authorities require that any new building or addition such as a sunroom be anchored at least six feet below grade before a building permit is issued.
There are several foundation options which allow you to provide this necessary stability and meet building code requirements. The more popular of these include sono tubes, helical or metal posts, either poured concrete or cement block foundation walls, and full basements. A half wall with a finished cement floor is another option which can be used in those cases where the floor line is near or below grade,
Metal posts
In the last 5 to 10 years, metal posts have replaced sono tubes in eastern Ontario and western Quebec as the most common method for building a sunroom foundation. In general, over 90% of all sunrooms installed by Four Seasons Sunrooms in this area are placed on helical pier/metal post systems. Metal post are basically round steel shafts with a helical blade placed near the bottom of the shaft and then screwed by machine into the ground to the desired depth.
With piers the floor structure, often referred to as the platform, is usually constructed using 2 x 10 or 2 x 12 inch floor joists on 16 inch centres. Pre-engineered floor systems represent a second platform option. Two by ten inch systems generally use R30 to R32 fibreglass insulation placed between the joists. Sheathing is applied under the joists to keep rodents from disturbing the insulation and to keep it in place. Five-eighth TG plywood is generally used for the sub-floor. In cases where ceramic tile is to be used, a second layer of 5/8th TG plywood is applied to provide rigidity and to protect the tiles from cracking. To prevent or reduce the growth of weeds or nuisance vegetation, the ground under sunroom platforms built on piers the ground is generally covered with a poly film with crushed stone or sand placed on top of the film.
Skirting, usually small PVC lattice, framing with parging, or other material, is often placed around the perimeter of the sunroom between the platform and about 4 inches above grade. Wire mesh buried 6 to 12 inches below grade to further deter rodents and other animals from entering this covered area can also be applied. The approximately 4 inch gap between grade and the bottom of the lattice or other skirting is to allow for ground expansion due to freezing in winter.
At Four Seasons Sunrooms (Ottawa) we are frequently approached by prospective sunroom buyers exploring the possibility of building a sunroom on their existing deck. Unfortunately, since these decks are invariably built on sono tubes or metal posts without sufficient depth, building permits cannot be secured, and the platform has to be rebuilt to code. Sono tubes or helical piers for decks in the Ottawa Gatineau area are seldom more than 4 ft. deep and subsequently are prone to heaving in winter.
Foundations Walls
Foundations walls used for sunrooms are built using either 8 or 10 inch poured concrete or cinder block walls placed on a 16 or 20 inch wide by 8 inch deep footing. The building code requires that this footing be either sitting on bed rock, or 5 ft. or 6 ft. below grade. Variations with this depth can be accepted or required by city building inspectors often working with soil engineers. Ten inch walls on 20 inch footings are used if the home owner is choosing to go with brick siding for the sunroom with the extra 2 inch width being required to support the brick.
The decision to use a cinder block wall rather than poured concrete is usually dictated by access. In cases where a cement truck is unable to reach a foundation site, a pump truck can be employed to push the cement from the driveway at the front of the house to the foundation site, usually at the back, and generally adding $500 to $1,500 to the overall cost. Where this is necessary, the client’s choice is usually to use cinder blocks and avoid the additional pumping costs.
The sunroom platform sits on the perimeter cement wall with the earth below the platform left in place and not removed as is the case with a full basement. About 3 inches or more of SM Blue, or some other form of rigid insulation, is applied to the inside of the foundation wall to a depth of 2 ft., the purpose of which is to reduce heat loss from the crawl space. The space between the platform and grade, referred to as the crawl space, is normally accessible to the basement through a crawl space opening of at least 18 inches x 24 inches. The primary purpose of this opening is to allow for venting of the crawl space as required by code. In some cases, the crawl space is actually vented to the outside rather than to the basement, but this is not a preferred method. When vented into the basement, the utilities including the heating and cooling ducts for the sunroom as well as heat for the crawl space are usually routed through this opening.
Unlike platforms built on posts, which are insulated, half wall platforms are not. This is to allow heat from the crawl space to warm the sunroom floor, similar to the way in which your basement heats the main floor of your house. In cases where the crawl space is vented outside and not into the basement, the floor platform, as with a post floor, must be insulated.
As already mentioned, the majority of all sunrooms installed by Four Seasons Sunrooms in the Ottawa area are placed on post foundations. There are two main reasons for this: the relative cost of half wall installations, and their impact on the existing landscaping. In very general terms, and depending on room size and other variables, half wall foundations will often cost roughly $4,000 to $10,000 or more than a post foundation. The second deterrent to half wall or full basement foundations is the overall disruption and destruction to the landscaping caused by the excavation and backfilling equipment when installing the foundation. This is a particular concern in cases where homeowners have exceptionally well cared-for and beautifully landscaped backyards.
There is one other consideration which may cause some potential clients to absorb the higher cost of half wall foundations and to accept the temporary disruption and landscaping costs. Half wall foundations, when vented into the basement, do provide a warmer floor. But at the same time it has to be recognized that properly insulated platforms built on posts, and when combined with in-floor heating, will create rooms that are every bit as comfortable as rooms built over a basement or foundation wall with a crawl space. Sunroom buyers seeking the comfort of a floor built over a foundation wall but without the added expense of that wall may wish to consider in-floor heating. Although this option does add some cost, it is still well below the cost of building on a foundation wall.
Heating
Heating and cooling a new home addition, whether it be a conventional shingle roof or glass roof addition, can be a tricky undertaking. Many factors can come into play including the size and orientation of the new room, its intended usage, the extent of shade cover from surrounding trees and buildings, the type and capacity of the current heating system, the location of the existing furnace relative to the new addition, the cost of ancillary heating and cooling units, the type of foundation, the extent to which the new addition will be separated from or incorporated into the existing home, as well as questions such as, is the current basement ceiling finished or is it accessible for the installation of new duct work?
Extending Existing Duct Work
One option for heating and cooling, and certainly the simplest approach, is to extend the existing duct work into the new addition. In fact, the question as to whether the existing heating system can be extended efficiently and economically is often the critical factor from which all other heating considerations follow. If your furnace is operating at its load capacity in meeting your home’s current heating requirements, then extending the duct work to a new addition, regardless of its size, is simply out of the question without a major furnace upgrade. Also, even when the heating and air conditioning system has extra capacity, its location relative to the addition may preclude any extension into the new room.
Most new additions are added onto the back of the house. In these cases, the ideal situation occurs when the furnace has extra capacity and is situated close to and in direct line with the proposed addition, and with access to the basement ceiling for extending the ductwork. In this configuration the new addition is almost certain to enjoy a sufficient delivery of hot and cool air through the central heating system. As the distance between the furnace and the addition increases, the amount of heated or cooled air available for delivery to the new room diminishes until the addition can be uncomfortably cool in winter and possibly hot in summer. Heat ducts with several corners, although often unavoidable, also serve to restrict air flow. Similarly, a plenum serving several runs with possibly multiple heat registers will often have little air pressure by the time it reaches the new addition.
Building the addition with a floor line lower than the adjoining house floor, even by as little as 7 inches, will often require drop down elbows (i.e., two additional corners) in each duct, with a negative impact on the system’s efficiency. Homes with a rear patio door or large window that is to become the proposed access to the addition often have a heat register located close to that access. A fairly common mistake is when homeowners assume they can simply extend that particular duct to meet the needs of the new addition. This approach rarely works. Firstly, the new addition will most likely require more than one heat register. And secondly, the existing register already has a job to do and that is to heat or contribute to heating the existing room. Removing this duct and extending it to cover the new room would in all likelihood leave both the original and new room relatively cool.
The choice of foundation and the type of flooring to be used must also be factored into all sunroom heating considerations. With foundation walls the sunroom platform is not insulated, allowing heat from the crawlspace under the platform to warm the new floor, just as the heat in your basement warms your house floor. Foundation walls also have the advantage of making installation of the heating system much easier than for posts.
With metal post foundations, the platform is exposed to the elements and is usually insulated to achieve R30 to R40. Hardwood flooring will boost this R value slightly. From our observations (Four Seasons Sunrooms - Ottawa), rooms built on either foundation walls or posts seem to cost about the same to heat. This opinion, however, is based solely on anecdotal evidence and we are not aware of any verifiable examination of this question. On one point we are certain: floors built on posts are cooler in winter than floors built on a foundation wall, especially where ceramic tile rather than hardwood, laminate or carpeting is the choice of floor covering.
Extending existing duct work to a new sunroom is usually neither complex nor expensive. Heating contractors, since their experience is often limited to inexpensive glass roof sunrooms built with low performance and poorly insulated glass, are often skittish about sunroom heating requirements and too frequently recommend overkill. Their solution can be both expensive and unnecessary. When the effectiveness of extending duct work is questionable, our recommendation is generally to proceed, but with a backup plan. In such situations we usually either install one or more ConVectair electric wall heaters, or at a minimum, pre-wire for later installation if the room turns out to be less than comfortable. The installation of one or more cold air returns should not be overlooked, especially where the new addition is isolated from the existing home
On occasion, as noted, extending the existing duct work is just not an option. In these cases, an independent heating system, such as a gas fireplace, a separate gas furnace with its own duct work, or sufficient electric heating represent the obvious options.
With additions that are incorporated into and open to the existing house, regardless of whether they are conventional shingle roof, or glass roof, it is usually easier to achieve and maintain a uniform, consistent, and comfortable temperature throughout the entire house, including the sunroom, especially if the furnace fan is run continuously throughout the winter.
In-floor Heating
One approach that has become increasingly popular over the past few years is the installation of electric in-floor heating in combination with post foundations. While there is additional cost involved in installing this heating, the combined cost of posts and in-floor heating is well below that of a foundation wall. And it has the added benefit of providing a warm tile floor without having to destroy or damage your landscaping with a foundation wall installation. Hot water in-floor heating is also an option. Although less costly to operate than electric, hot water systems are more expensive to install. There are two additional points that should be noted when considering in-floor electric heating. First, it will not heat your room. While it will contribute to some space heating, its main function is to keep the floor comfortable. The second point is that while it works extremely well with tile flooring, and reportedly works with laminate flooring, the results with hardwood and engineered flooring are, to the best of our knowledge, quite disappointing.
Heated Double Floor Systems
A second method of providing a warm floor on post foundation is to install what is known as a heated double platform. This approach calls for the installation of a standard insulated 2 x 10 or 2 x 12 inch platform with a second un-insulated platform using web joists built over the first. Web joists are designed to allow air to flow freely between each of the joists within the platform cavity. Vapour barrier is placed between the two platforms with insulation placed around the outside perimeter walls of the sealed upper platform. Hot air from a separate duct is then directed into the upper web joist platform where it is able to circulate freely throughout the platform cavity. Heating the cavity in this manner will serve to ensure a warm and comfortable floor in the sunroom. Duct work to carry warm air to the sunroom floor registers is installed within the web platform the same as it would be in a standard insulated platform.
Double floor systems will not work with all projects. All too often the space between grade and the house floor is limited, often to as little as 14 to 16 inches, or less. This is barely enough space to accommodate a single platform and still leave a reasonable distance of about 4 inches between grade and the platform so as to allow for any soil expansion due to freezing. Allowing frozen and expanding soil to touch and lift the sunroom will likely cause significant damage to the sunroom. At least 25 to 30 inches between the floor line and grade is required for the installation of double floor system.
Flooring
Whether for glass or conventional roof sunrooms, there are few limits when selecting sunroom flooring. The choices are as wide open and varied as selecting flooring for your home. Wood, tile, slate, cork, laminates, and carpeting are all in the running with each having its own pros and cons.
Wood is particularly popular—and for many reasons. It is warm, pleasing to walk on, easy to clean, and with occasional refinishing, will probably last well over 100 years. And because it is so permanent, and relatively costly, there is a need to choose carefully. Options include natural wood such as oak, maple, walnut, and birch, and engineered wood. There is also an expanding selection of laminates which, although not wood, are providing buyers with a product similar in appearance and at a much lower price.
Natural Wood
Elegant, warm, soft, and beautiful—these are just a few of the adjectives associated with wood flooring. Installation is fairly simple. Tongue and groove boards, usually 2 1/4 inches wide, are nailed with screw nails that are concealed in the edges. These floors are first sanded and then usually finished with standard polyurethane. Since natural wood flooring must be nailed to the sub-floor, it is unsuitable for installation directly over concrete. And since wood is sensitive to moisture, which causes expansion and possible buckling, it is not suitable for basements, below grade installations, or finished cement slab construction.
Sanding these floors can be dusty and an annoyance if the dust moves beyond the new addition and throughout the house. To overcome this problem, many homeowners have moved to natural wood flooring with a factory applied finish. The benefits are immediate: no dust, no fumes from the polyurethane, and the new floor is ready for immediate use. An added advantage is that the factory applied aluminum oxide finishes are much tougher than the standard polyurethane applied on-site. According to some sources, you can expect 20 to 25 years from a factory applied finish versus approximately 10 years for an on-site polyurethane finish.
But there is a downside. Because pre-finished wood flooring is not sanded after installation, there can be slight bumps and cracks where the sub-floor is not perfectly level. Also, the finished boards themselves may have slight variations in thickness. To deal with this problem most pre-finished floorboards have bevel edged corners which create a slight “V” groove between each board, giving the floor a distinctly pre-finished look and, as well, a place for dirt to collect.
Engineered Wood
Engineered wood flooring is essentially a thin wood veneer glued over a plywood base. It is the perfect choice for moist applications where natural wood simply won’t work. A prime example would be a sunroom using a finished cement slab inside a half wall foundation in place of a 2 x 10 platform. Another recommended application would be where the sunroom is sitting on a simple cement slab as is common in California and other southern states. This product comes in a tongue and groove format that must be stapled or glued to the sub-floor. It can also be installed as a floating floor with the planks actually glued to each other and not attached to the sub-floor so as to allow for shifting related to moisture changes.
To the best of our knowledge, all engineered flooring is sold pre-finished with bevelled edges. One major drawback with this product is the limited number of times this wood can be re-sanded. The veneer covering usually ranges from 1/12 of an inch, which cannot be re-sanded, to 1/4 of an inch, which should be able to withstand up to three sandings. As with natural wood, many engineered floors can be buffed and re-coated if the finish is not completely worn, thereby extending its lifespan.
Laminates
Introduced from Sweden in the 90's, laminate flooring now enjoys about 10% of the entire residential flooring market. There are reasons for this rapid growth. The product is low cost (as low as $.99 per square ft.) is scratch resistant, and can be easily installed by the home owner. Laminate flooring is actually a photo of wood placed between a fibreboard backing and a clear plastic top surface coating. The end result is a surface that ends up looking reasonably authentic. In fact, with recent improvements, properly installed high quality laminates look very close to the real thing. Unfortunately these floors tend to make a “hollow” sound when walked on, a problem that to some extent can be alleviated with the use of specific sound damping materials.
Quality laminate flooring usually carries a 20, even 25 year guarantee. But unlike natural wood, and to a lesser extent, engineered wood, laminates cannot be refinished; they are only good for one round.
For sunroom buyers who elect to build on piers or posts, laminates have one big advantage over wood. Should the homeowner choose to install in-floor electric or hot water heating, and want a wood look, then laminate flooring is an option. In-floor heating reportedly performs well with laminates but not with the thicker natural and engineered products.
Ceramic Tile
There is very little we can add to the already available information available on ceramic tile. Durable, almost indestructible, easy to clean, available in almost all possible colours and patterns, excellent for spills when watering plants, and easy to install represent the main attributes that have contributed to the wide popularity of this product in sunroom flooring. It can also be low cost with prices actually starting from as low as $2.00 per tile plus installation. Installation does require a second layer of tongue and groove plywood or a similar product to provide a stronger sub-floor to help avoid any movement and cracking of tiles. Since tile is a good conductor of heat, this product works very well when combined with either in-floor radiant or hot water heating.
Sunroom Orientation
Historically, glass roof sunrooms have been situated on the southern sunny side of the house, and to a lesser extent, if the south side was not available, facing east or west. Few were placed on the north side. This preference seems to continue today. There remains a perception that the south-facing side is the location of choice, a preference that seems to be based on the belief that glass roof sunrooms are cold in winter and can be warmed by the winter sun. What seems to be ignored is that developments over the past two decades in glass technology have brought sunroom design to the point where they can be built comfortably and economically facing any direction—north, south, east, or west.
North facing sunrooms, especially where the interior wall separating the sunroom from the original house has been removed, can have a stunning impact as the original north facing rooms become more exposed to the sun’s diffused light. Too often, the beauty and importance of diffused light is ignored in sunroom planning. Owners of north-facing sunrooms where the kitchen is located towards the backyard will invariably report that their house has been transformed. Previously the south-facing rooms at the front of the house (usually the living room) had served as a preferred location for relaxing and entertaining. However, with the addition of a north-facing sunroom, this is no longer the case. People love a bright cheery kitchen or family room, even when they are north-facing, and that is what north-facing sunrooms will deliver, even on a cloudy day.
North-facing sunroom owners will often comment how surprised they are on cloudy days to see their neighbours with their lights on, even in their south-facing rooms, while their own sunroom is still bathed in natural light. Most newspapers have a home section they run on weekends in which they frequently feature new kitchen additions and renovations. Invariably all the lights are turned on to make the room look bright and cheery. That simply does not happen with a glass roof sunroom.
North-facing is not the only option. We have only mentioned it here as too often wonderful home addition opportunities are not explored for all the wrong reasons. East-facing is also desirable as it gives you an opportunity to capture the morning light, as well as diffused light throughout the balance of the day. Similarly, south and west are also functional thanks to the heat reflective properties of ConservaGlass Select. West-facing rooms, however, can be problematic, regardless of whether or not they have shingled, foam core or glass roofs and may benefit from the application of vertical shading in the afternoon. This is especially true on hot summer days, from mid June through mid August, and after about 2:30 or 3:00 p.m. when the sun sinks lower in the sky and starts to strike the sunroom’s vertical glass more than its more reflective roof glass.
There is one interesting point about west-facing rooms during those hotter weeks of summer. Glass roof sunrooms from Four Seasons Sunrooms are built with vertical ConservaGlass Select which limits the amount of infrared heat entering the room to less than 40%. Conventional shingle roof rooms are usually built using low-E argon which usually allows over 80% of that heat to enter the room. Not surprisingly, homeowners who opt for a conventional shingle roof sunroom may find that not only is their house darker, but their sunroom is hotter than if they had chosen a glass roof with efficient heat reflective glass rather than the low-E glass normally used in quality windows found in conventional construction.
Integrating Your Sunroom
One further consideration when adding a sunroom to your home is how to access the new addition. Unfortunately, old perceptions regarding sunrooms can be difficult to correct. One such perception is that sunrooms are oven-like in summer and impossible to heat in winter. Consequently, many buyers can be understandably nervous, preferring to err on the side of caution and to keep the new addition physically separated from the main house and function as a separate climate zone. This can be easily achieved by leaving the existing exterior door in place so as to ensure that the sunroom does not affect the temperature of the adjoining rooms. For many, this arrangement also allows the buyer to avoid heating the new addition when it is not being used. Where the decision is to keep the new room as separate space, care must be taken to ensure installation of a cold air return.
A second option is to create an open passageway between the house and the sunroom by completely removing an existing door or window. This is a fairly inexpensive route since the headers above the door and/or window are already in place and no structural work is required, simply cosmetic finishing. Many buyers opt for this option as it is not final—they can always re-install a door if they feel uncomfortable with their original decision to have it removed.
The third option, and in our opinion often the most attractive and functional, is the removal of as much of the original exterior wall separating the sunroom from the house as is structurally possible. This approach works extremely well when the sunroom is part and parcel of a kitchen renovation. Not only is the new glass roof sunroom bright and cheery, but with the removal of the wall, the existing adjoining room also becomes much brighter than it was before the sunroom was added, even when the sunroom faces north.
There are other advantages to removing all or a large portion of the wall separating the new addition from the main house. Rooms that are opened up to the home are easier to maintain at the same temperature as that being maintained throughout the house. Also, wide open sunrooms seem to attract much more traffic and are more likely to become the focal point for the entire house. There is, however, one downside: Removing a portion of the exterior wall and installing a structural beam capable of meeting code and carrying the roof load will add to the overall cost of the project.
Contract Pitfalls
When buying a sunroom, trust your instincts. Be sure you know who you are dealing with. Stability is important, especially when warranty issues begin to surface. Obviously how long has the company been in business, how long the current owners have owned the company, do they have offices and a showroom, do they own or rent, and how long have they operated from that location—all are legitimate and critical questions. Obviously a company that owns its own showroom and warehouse facilities and has had the same local ownership for a number of years would seem to offer more stability rather than one that is renting its facilities and frequently changing ownership.
Contracts seldom receive the attention they deserve. Too often both the client and the contractor opt for a shorter, simpler contract, trusting that all will be well and that any new business-client friendship that may have developed during the design and selling phase will endure throughout the construction process.
When dealing with sunroom builders, ask for written proposals. Even better, develop a written list of what items you want covered in those proposals. This will also help to ensure that quotes from various suppliers are comparable. Although not an exhaustive list, some examples of items you may wish to see included in such a proposal and in a final contract are as follows:
1) Plans. Will these be included in the contract price?
2) Building permits, any variance permit requirements, and engineering. Who is going to pursue these, and who is going to pay for them?
3)Ensure there is a clause in your contract specifying that all work will be according to code, and that all workers will be covered by Workers Compensation.
4)Some clarification as to exactly what materials are included. Examples include what model sunroom was purchased including the size and colour, the number and style of operating windows, doors, and other optional parts to be included, and the specifications on the type of glass to be used.
5)Who is responsible for heating and electrical work, and what is included? What about electrical fixtures and any necessary upgrade to the electrical panel?
6) Who is responsible for any possible repairs to landscaping?
Payments
A seller asking for a large down payment should be cause for concern. There should be no need for you to finance your contractor’s business by paying large deposits for work not yet completed. However, by the same token, do not hesitate to pay for work and materials that have already been delivered. If the contractor is seeking a large down payment, as well as advance payment for work not yet completed, you may want to dig a little deeper into the company’s background and financial stability. Be clear as to when the final payment is due. Four Seasons Sunrooms (Ottawa) requests down payments of only 10%, staged payments throughout the project (usually three), and a small final payment once the project is either ready for use or is being used for the purpose intended.
Warranty
Sunrooms contain a lot of glass. A moderate size glass roof sunroom will often contain up to three times as much glass as exists in the rest of an average two story home. And unlike the glass used throughout your house, premium sunrooms are built with expensive high performance glass. The last thing you want to have to do is to have to start replacing sunroom glass a few years after installation due to seal failure.
Four Seasons sunrooms carry two warranties: one for product and one for labour. Four Seasons Sunrooms (Corporate), provides a transferable limited lifetime glass warranty, including 20 years of full coverage against seal failure or breakage on ConservaGlass Plus. Four Seasons Sunrooms (Ottawa) provides a two year warranty on installation labour, including leakage, but excluding the installation of replacement glass due to breakage at anytime, or to glass replacement due to seal failure beyond the first year.
A word of caution. Many companies offer long term glass warranties—40 years is not uncommon. It is also not uncommon that some of those companies offering long warranties will stay in business for only a short period, and may no longer be in operation, even after a few years, when you need a replacement window. A second problem is that many of these long-term warranties are limited and prorated and of very little monetary value by the time trouble hits.
Cancellation of the Contract
Be sure your contract can be cancelled within a reasonable period of time after signing. While it seems innocuous, this can be a double-edged sword. Long cancellation periods seem reasonable but it is unlikely the contracting company will start work on your project while the cancellation clause is still in effect. In other words, having a twenty day cancellation period may seem like a good idea, but only if you are prepared to wait twenty business days before initial activity such as work on plans and engineering can begin. The contract should also be very clear on what initial start-up costs must be born by the client if a building permit is not approved. Four Seasons Sunrooms (Ottawa) contracts, for example, specify that should this occur, the cost for preliminary work such as plans must be born by the client.
Change Orders
Once work starts it is not uncommon for the homeowner to request minor changes to the original contract. Examples would be upgrading the siding, adding a deck, selecting different moulding, or deciding to add or subtract flooring. One way to avoid later disputes is to ensure that every change is covered by a “Change Order” which sets out exactly what is being added or subtracted, what is the additional cost, and when payment is due for the additional work.
Start and Stop Dates
Start and stop dates are a particularly tricky issue. Clients are generally apprehensive when it comes to dealing with general contractors and will often request that project “start” and “completion” dates be included within the contract with financial penalties if these dates are not met. On the surface, this would seem to be a reasonable request. In fact, Mike Holmes, the Ottawa-Carleton Renovation Council, and many construction consultants and organizations all advises that homeowners signing a contract with a building contractor ensure that their contract includes start and completion dates.
Four Seasons Sunrooms (Ottawa) does not agree with or follow this approach. Our policy in this area is to place each project on our “Project Scheduling Board” once we have signed a contract and the building permit has been secured. Each project is then started in sequence and in the order in which it was placed on the Scheduling Board. The difficulty with providing fixed start and completion dates is simply that there are too many variables that affect that start date. Permits that would normally take only two or three weeks to secure in most jurisdictions, in Ottawa, can take four months, or even longer, if issues surface. Once the project starts, damaged or missing parts can also be a problem. If a contractor is building a conventional shingled roof addition, and is missing some 2 x 6's or a sheet of plywood, it is usually only a short trip to the lumber yard. Missing glass roof sunroom parts, since they come from the main factory in New York, can take up to a week or longer.
In eastern Ontario and western Quebec, our weather is very much an unknown quantity. Very cold or hot weather, or an unusually wet summer, can play havoc with our work schedule. Installers simply cannot make any significant progress when the winter temperature is in the low minus 20's or below, or in summer heat waves when the temperature climbs over 30 or 32 degrees. Periods of extended heavy rain can also cause delay. Late springs following a very cold winter where the frost is still deep may interfere with a our ability to put foundations in the ground and can hold up construction by one or more weeks.
Because of the above and other factors beyond our control, and faced with a contract start and completion date we cannot meet, we would have but two options: 1) pull our installers from another project, or 2) hire more installers. Neither is workable. One of our core commitments to our clients is that once we start a project and barring issues such as weather, or other factors noted above, we do not leave a job until it is complete. We especially will not stop work on an existing project to have our installers start work on a second project.
The second option—to hire additional builders when falling behind—would seem to be the obvious solution, at least on the surface. However, glass roof sunroom construction is complex work and requires meticulous, well-trained, skilled employees. In busy periods, unlike most general contractors specializing in conventional construction, we simply do not have the luxury of being able to hire additional glass roof sunroom installers/glaziers from an existing labour pool—they simply do not exist. To the best of our knowledge, the only installers that are available in eastern Ontario and western are those already working in the industry.
At Four Seasons Sunrooms (Ottawa) we simply will not put ourselves in a position where we have to use other than experienced, trained installers to meet a contract commitment. To do otherwise would produce a result where neither we nor the client being happy with the outcome—even though we would have met our contractual timeline commitments. Instead, our approach is to inform new clients as to their position on the Scheduling Board, and to provide our best indication as to when we expect to arrive on site and to finish the project. We strongly suggest prospective clients check our record in this area with the Better Business Bureau. We also recommend that clients wanting to have a sunroom that is occupancy-ready by a certain date contact us as early as possible in order to ensure that their project will be completed by their target date. Of course, we at Four Seasons Sunrooms (Ottawa) will do everything in our power to meet that target.
Getting Started
Getting started need not be difficult. One possible first step is to call in two or three, sunroom companies, even more if they operate in your area and you feel this would be helpful. Building a sunroom is a large investment—you want to do it right. Do your homework so that you are able to ask the right questions, to make informed decisions, and to not have to leave the critical choices to others who may have a different agenda.
Start well in advance of when you would like to have the project completed. Often the decision as to the most appropriate model, location and size are obvious, and allow you to proceed quickly. In other cases the design phase can take one or two months, even longer. Take your time and don’t be rushed. The decisions to be made are too important, and like building a house, are often irreversible.
Four Seasons Sunrooms (Ottawa) looks forward to working with you to add an elegant and extraordinary masterpiece to your home with unparalleled architectural styling and flexibility. A dramatic addition sure to attract the entire family and to become the heart of your home is just a phone call away.
Contact us today. Let’s get started!
Further Information
For additional sunroom information and photo galleries, visit www.fourseasonssunrooms.ca.
Considering a custom home, home addition, or replacement windows and doors? Visit Lumen Homes, Lumen Home Improvements, and Lumen Windows and Doors at www.lumenhomes.ca.
Further Information
For additional sunroom information and photo galleries, visit www.fourseasonssunrooms.ca.
Considering a custom home, home addition, or replacement windows and doors? Visit Lumen Homes, Lumen Home Improvements, and Lumen Windows and Doors at www.lumenhomes.ca.
